From the 12 c., Troyes stood apart because of its textile activity (textile manufacture) but the history of “Bonneterie” (manufacture of hats in knitted cotton) started really in the Hotel of Jean de Mauroy, financial controller of the Kingdom, who made the headquarters at the Hôpital de la Trinité in order to take in poor children and teach them a craft.
In 1745, due to the invention of the knitting loom by the Englishman William Lee in 1589, whose principle is still in use today, they were to be taught the use of the new machines invented for the mechanical manufacture of stockings. The first manufacture of knitted stockings was created. It became the largest manufacture in the city and in 1770 Troyes already had 40 “bonnetiers”, bonnet–makers who had learned the skill of manufacturing stockings.
Since then, constructors In the Aube and from Troyes haven’t stopped innovating in this sector. In 1830 DELATHIERE invented a mechanical system of decreasing; in 1841 JACQUIN invented the circular loom, and there were many others (FOUQUET, GILLET, LEBOCEY, PORON, BUXTORF etc) who designed and perfected a number of new machines (PAGET loom, COTTON loom etc.).
The Museum of Hosiery is fortunate to have in its possession the majority of the looms that illustrate the decisive stages in the technological evolution of hosiery.
Since then, constructors In the Aube and from Troyes haven’t stopped innovating in this sector. In 1830 DELATHIERE invented a mechanical system of decreasing; in 1841 JACQUIN invented the circular loom, and there were many others (FOUQUET, GILLET, LEBOCEY, PORON, BUXTORF etc) who designed and perfected a number of new machines (PAGET loom, COTTON loom etc.).
In 1914 hosiery in the Aube represented half of the national industry, both in turnover and workforce. Due to the industrial development of other textile regions, from 1930 this dropped to 30%.
In the 1950’s the appearance of new threads and synthetic fibres (in particular nylon), the invention of stockings without seams, the performance of automatic equipment and the competition of low-cost imports led to the disappearance of highly qualified professions (loom conductors, darners etc.) and radically transformed the system....
Today the popularity of the factory stores and outlets and the skills of the industrialists in our region draw almost 3 million visitors to our city annually.
Two Museums on the History of Hosiery
The Hotel du Mauroy (XVI c.)
This private mansion was built in 1560 by Jean de Mauroy, financial controller. Following his will it was converted into an orphanage, directed by the Brothers of la Redemption de Paris and called “Trinité des Enfants Bleus” because the children there were all dressed in blue. This is where, in 1745, the hosiery industry started with the appearance of the first looms for knitted stockings. It was given by the City of Troyes to the Compagnons du Devoir du Tour de France who were responsible for the magnificent restoration, following which it became the Museum of Craft Tools and Work Reflection. This museum has a spectacular presentation of a unique collection of 10,000 ancient tools of wood, iron, leather and stone crafts from XVII and XVIII centuries. A library of almost 20,000 volumes given to literature on work complete the harmony of the collection.
The Hotel de Vauluisant (XVI c.)
This old private mansion was originally a hostel for the monks of the Valuisant Abbey in the Yonne region. It is particularly typical of the Renaissance architecture of the region. It houses two museums: 1) the Museum of Hosiery - of which there are two in France (the one in Roanne having a more recent collection). Here can be found anything to do with the history of knitting from the earliest times and the history of hosiery in Troyes since the XVIII c.: over 5,000 manufactured articles (of which some are over 300 years old: stockings, hats, slippers etc.)150 crafts and mechanical skills invented, perfected and constructed in the Aube, samples, trademarks, photographs etc, : 2)The Historical Museum of Troyes and Champagne, retracing the evolution of the city over the centuries (plans, fortifications, houses), presenting a fine collection of sculptures and paintings of the Troyes School (XVI c.). Interesting and unusual.